food for thought 7-26-07

from the los angeles times

Duck tacos with chile-cherry compote

Total time: About 1 hour, plus 1 hour marinating time
Servings: 4

Ingredients

2 tsps. kosher salt, divided
1 1/2 pounds boneless duck breasts, skin on
10 dried chiles de arbol
6 ounces dried Bing cherries
1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsps. olive oil, divided
5 cloves garlic, minced, divided
1/2 cup diced onion
6 tomatillos, husks removed, coarsely chopped
8 small corn tortillas
Finely chopped fresh cilantro for garnish

1. Rub 1 tsp. of the salt into the duck breasts, place them in a large sealable plastic bag and refrigerate for 1 hour while you make the sauce.

2. Soak the chiles de arbol and dried cherries in 2 cups of boiling water for about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid. In a food processor, combine the drained chiles and cherries with one-fourth cup olive oil, one-half tsp. salt and 2 cloves of the minced garlic. Process to a thick paste, adding a little of the reserved liquid to help combine and adjust consistency. Set aside. This makes about 1 cup compote.

3. In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, place the remaining 2 Tbsps. of olive oil, the onions and the remaining 3 cloves of minced garlic. Sauté until the onions are just starting to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatillos and remaining one-half tsp. salt. Cover and continue to cook about 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatillos are tender. Remove and cool slightly for a few minutes.

4. In a food processor, combine the tomatillo mixture with one-fourth cup of the chile-cherry paste. Set aside. This makes about 1 1/2 cups sauce.

5. Place the duck breasts, skin side down, into a cold, cast-iron skillet. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook the duck about 10 minutes, or until the skin is golden-brown and crispy and the fat has rendered off. (Turn the heat down to medium after a few minutes and watch to make sure the duck doesn't burn. Adjust the heat if necessary so that it cooks evenly.) Turn the duck over and cook for 1 minute to cook the meat to medium-rare; otherwise, continue cooking until desired doneness is achieved. Remove the breasts to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice very thinly on the diagonal.

6. Heat a skillet over medium heat and warm the tortillas. Place two to a plate and divide the sliced duck among the tortillas. Spoon a Tbsp. or so of the tomatillo sauce over the duck and add a half-teaspoon of chile-cherry compote on top, or to taste. Sprinkle the top with fresh chopped cilantro. Serve immediately.

Each serving: 565 calories; 37 grams protein; 42 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams fiber; 27 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 174 mg. cholesterol; 464 mg. sodium.

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White peach-Riesling sangria

Total time: About 20 minutes, plus fermenting time
Servings: 6

Note: Adapted from wine director/sommelier Holly Smith at Eno, Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel. The sangria will keep refrigerated for 1 week. To make a simple syrup, mix equal parts sugar and water over low heat in a small saucepan until the sugar melts. Poolside at the hotel, the sangria is served with fruit ice cubes -- place a berry or small piece of peach in each compartment of an ice cube tray, then fill with water and freeze.

Ingredients

750ml. bottle dry Riesling
1 1/2 cups white cranberry-peach drink
1/2 cup peach nectar
3 Tbsps. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsps. simple syrup
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
2 lemons, cut in 1/2 -inch slices
2 oranges, cut in 1/2 -inch slices
2 ripe white peaches, cut into wedges
10 fresh raspberries
Club soda, if desired
Fresh mint sprigs, if desired

1. In a large pitcher, combine the Riesling, cranberry-peach drink, peach nectar, lemon juice, simple syrup, vanilla bean, lemons, oranges, peaches and raspberries and stir gently. Refrigerate several hours, but preferably 2 to 3 days, to allow the flavors to develop.

2. To serve, pour the sangria into a high-ball or margarita glass filled with ice. If desired, float the top of the glass with a little club soda and garnish with a mint sprig. Serve immediately.

Each serving: 136 calories; 0 protein; 14 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 10 mg. sodium.

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Fraîche's strawberry sangria

Total time: About 20 minutes
Servings: 4

Note: Adapted from bar chef Albert Trummer at Fraîche. This makes slightly more sweetened lime juice than is called for in the recipe; the remainder can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Ingredients

Juice of 2 limes
2 tsps. sugar
16 ripe strawberries, cut in half
1/2 tsp. aged balsamic vinegar
4 ounces Grand Marnier
4 ounces premium vodka
8 ounces California Pinot Noir

1. Combine the lime juice and sugar in a small heavy-bottom saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then immediately reduce the heat to very low and simmer about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Divide the strawberries among 4 old-fashioned glasses. Sprinkle equal amounts of balsamic vinegar over them (it'll be just a few drops in each, about one-eighth tsp.). Divide the Grand Marnier among them, and muddle the ingredients in each glass.

3. Fill each glass about two-thirds full with ice, then pour equal amounts vodka over the ice in each. Add one-half ounce of the simmered lime juice to each glass. Pour equal amounts of the wine into each glass, then stir gently and serve.

Each serving: 235 calories; 0 protein; 21 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 6 mg. sodium.

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Sangria No. 27

Total time: About 30 minutes, plus infusing time
Servings: 8

Ingredients

4 large or 6 small ripe peaches, peeled and sliced in wedges
1/2 pint blackberries
2 large or 3 medium oranges, washed and cut into 3/8-inch slices
2 limes, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 sprigs of thyme
2 sprigs of fresh lavender (optional)
4 sprigs of mint
1/2 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 bottle good-quality red wine
1/2 cup Cognac or other brandy
1/3 cup Grand Marnier
1/2 cup sweet red vermouth
5 shakes of angostura bitters

1. Place the peaches, blackberries, orange and lime slices, thyme, lavender and mint in a large pitcher. Scrape the vanilla seeds from the bean, and add the seeds and pod to the mixture. Add the orange juice, wine, Cognac, Grand Marnier, vermouth and bitters and stir to combine. Let sit, unrefrigerated, for 1 to 3 hours. Add lots of ice and serve.

Each of 8 servings: 111 calories; 0 protein; 8 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 5 mg. sodium.

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from realsimple.com

Gazpacho with Goat Cheese

Yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings
2 1/2 pounds beefsteak tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 small cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 small sweet onion, roughly chopped
2 red bell peppers, roughly chopped
1 pound Kirby cucumbers, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and pepper
3 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
1 large baguette
1 cup fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears)
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 Crusty bread (optional)

Working in batches, place the tomatoes, garlic, onion, bell peppers, and cucumbers in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until almost pureed. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon juice, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and top with the goat cheese, corn, and cilantro. Drizzle with the olive oil and serve with the crusty bread (if using).

CALORIES 145(56% from fat); FAT 15g (sat 3g); SUGAR 6g; PROTEIN 5g; CHOLESTEROL 5mg; SODIUM 540mg; FIBER 3g; CARBOHYDRATE 15g

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from the new york times

Confit Biyaldi

Yield: 4 servings

Piperade

1/2 red pepper, seeds and ribs removed
1/2 yellow pepper, seeds and ribs removed
1/2 orange pepper, seeds and ribs removed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup finely diced yellow onion
3 tomatoes (about 12 ounces total weight), peeled, seeded, and finely diced, juices reserved
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig flat-leaf parsley
1/2 a bay leaf
Kosher salt

Vegetables

1 zucchini (4 to 5 ounces) sliced in 1/16-inch rounds
1 Japanese eggplant (4 to 5 ounces) sliced into 1/16-inch rounds
1 yellow squash (4 to 5 ounces) sliced into 1/16-inch rounds
4 Roma tomatoes, sliced into 1/16-inch rounds
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/8 teaspoon thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Assorted fresh herbs (thyme flowers, chervil, thyme)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. For piperade, heat oven to 450 degrees. Place pepper halves on a foil-lined sheet, cut side down. Roast until skin loosens, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest until cool enough to handle. Peel and chop finely.

2. Combine oil, garlic, and onion in medium skillet over low heat until very soft but not browned, about 8 minutes. Add tomatoes, their juices, thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Simmer over low heat until very soft and very little liquid remains, about 10 minutes, do not brown; add peppers and simmer to soften them. Season to taste with salt, and discard herbs. Reserve tablespoon of mixture and spread remainder in bottom of an 8-inch skillet.

3. For vegetables, heat oven to 275 degrees. Down center of pan, arrange a strip of 8 alternating slices of vegetables over piperade, overlapping so that 1/4 inch of each slice is exposed. Around the center strip, overlap vegetables in a close spiral that lets slices mound slightly toward center. Repeat until pan is filled; all vegetables may not be needed.

4. Mix garlic, oil, and thyme leaves in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle over vegetables. Cover pan with foil and crimp edges to seal well. Bake until vegetables are tender when tested with a paring knife, about 2 hours. Uncover and bake for 30 minutes more. (Lightly cover with foil if it starts to brown.) If there is excess liquid in pan, place over medium heat on stove until reduced. (At this point it may be cooled, covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Serve cold or reheat in 350-degree oven until warm.)

5. For vinaigrette, combine reserved piperade, oil, vinegar, herbs, and salt and pepper to taste in a bowl.

6. To serve, heat broiler and place byaldi underneath until lightly browned. Slice in quarters and very carefully lift onto plate with offset spatula. Turn spatula 90 degrees, guiding byaldi into fan shape. Drizzle vinaigrette around plate. Serve hot.