food for thought

from the los angeles times

Roasted broccoli rabe with white beans and ricotta salata

Total time: 30 minutes
Servings: 8 to 12

Note: Reserve half of the bean and wine mixture in Step 3 for use in the green chile and chicken stew, or add all of the bean mixture to the broccoli rabe, if preferred. Ricotta salata can be found at Bristol Farms, Whole Foods and the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills.

Ingredients

1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon orange zest
3 shallots, roughly chopped
2 medium bunches broccoli rabe (about 1 1/2 pounds total), trimmed and cut into 2-inch and 3-inch pieces
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped thyme
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 ounce ricotta salata

1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with foil and set aside.

2. In a large bowl, place 2 tablespoons of the oil, orange zest, shallots and broccoli rabe along with three-fourths teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon pepper and toss well. Spread the broccoli rabe in an even layer on the baking sheet and place in the oven. Roast, tossing halfway through, until the broccoli rabe is wilted, tender and some leaves are just crispy, about 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the thyme, pepper flakes and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is golden, about 1 minute. Add the beans, one-fourth teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper and cook, stirring often, until heated through and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine, stir gently and cook, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet, until most of the liquid has evaporated but the beans are still moist, 3 to 5 minutes more. (Reserve half of the bean mixture for the green chile and chicken stew, if you like.)

4. Transfer the broccoli rabe to a large serving bowl when done. Toss with the beans and shave the ricotta salata on top. Serve immediately.

Each of 12 servings: 122 calories; 6 grams protein; 12 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 6 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 3 mg. cholesterol; 184 mg. sodium.


Whole wheat flatbreads with caramelized onions and dates

Total time: 3 1/4 hours, including 2 1/4 hours rising time
Servings: Makes 2 (14-inch) oval flatbreads, about 16 slices

Note: Use leftover caramelized onions from the green chile and chicken stew to top the flatbreads. Alternatively, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 large thinly sliced yellow onion and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring often, until the onion slices are deep golden brown. This flatbread is also delicious when it's a few days old; simply toast it in a hot oven before serving.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon sugar
1 ( 1/4 -ounce) package active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, if desired
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 cup dried pitted dates (about 1/4 pound), thinly sliced into rounds
3/4 cup caramelized onions

1. Stir the sugar and yeast into a small bowl filled with 1 cup of lukewarm water. Set aside until foamy, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, cardamom and cinnamon, if using. Form a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the yeast mixture with 2 tablespoons oil. Stir, gently working the flour into the middle, until a shaggy dough forms.

3. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the dates over dough in two batches and continue kneading until they're well combined, 2 to 3 more minutes. Coat the inside of a large bowl with 1 teaspoon of the remaining oil, then transfer the dough to the bowl. Loosely cover the bowl with a damp towel or plastic wrap, and set aside in a very warm spot until the dough has doubled in size, about 1½ hours.

4. Lightly oil 2 large baking sheets with 2 teaspoons oil. Divide the dough into two equal pieces and press and stretch each into an oval 14 inches long and 7 inches wide. Place the ovals on the baking sheets and brush with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Evenly scatter the onions on the top of each oval, then set aside in a very warm spot until they are soft and puffed in appearance, about 45 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, place the racks in the top and bottom third of the oven and heat to 400 degrees. Bake the flatbreads, rotating the trays halfway through for even coloring. Bake until cooked through and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Slice into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

Each of 16 servings: 105 calories; 2 grams protein; 14 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 5 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 147 mg. sodium.


Hot mulled cider

Total time: 40 minutes
Servings: 8 to 10

Note: Adapted from "Cider Hard and Sweet: History, Traditions & Making Your Own" by Ben Watson.

Ingredients

1/2 gallon apple cider
4 to 6 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks
6 cardamom pods, crushed
1 whole nutmeg, cracked open
10 to 12 whole cloves
6 allspice berries (optional)
4 to 6 star anise pods (optional)
Zest of 1/2 lemon or 1/2 orange, thinly cut into lengthwise strips
Orange slices for garnish
1 1/2 cups rum or brandy (optional)

1. In a large, nonreactive pot, place the cider, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, star anise and zest. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, still covered, for 15 minutes.

2. Line a colander with cheesecloth and strain the cider into another pot, discarding the spices. Heat the cider over very low heat, add the orange slices and serve hot. This makes about 8 cups cider.

Variation: For alcoholic cider, stir the rum or brandy into the strained cider and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the orange slices and serve hot.

Each of 10 servings: 93 calories; 0 protein; 23 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 6 mg. sodium.


Corn bread

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes plus cooling and rising time
Servings: Makes 1 loaf

Note: Adapted from "The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa" by Marcus Samuelsson.

Ingredients

1 small ear of corn, shucked
3/4 cup milk
1 package active dry yeast
1 Tbsp. butter
1 jalapeño, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
2 scallions, trimmed and chopped
1 tsp. chile powder
1 1/2 cups flour, plus more as needed
1 cup cornmeal
1 tsp. salt
3 Tbsps. honey
1 egg

1. Cut the kernels from the corncob; break the corncob in half and place the cob and kernels in a medium saucepan. Add the milk and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and allow to cool until just warm. Remove and discard the cob and whisk in the yeast. Cover the pan with a lid and let it sit for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat a small saucepan over high heat. Add the butter and swirl until it starts to foam and then subsides, browning just a little. Add the jalapeño, scallions and chile powder and sauté until the pepper and scallions are softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together the 1 1/2 cups flour, cornmeal and salt. In a medium bowl, combine the corn and milk mixture, honey, egg and scallion mixture. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the liquid mixture, stirring slowly until the mixture is absorbed and the dough comes together.

4. Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes, adding additional flour as necessary while kneading. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover with a damp cloth or oiled plastic wrap, and allow to rise in a warm place until it's 1 1/2 times its original size, about 45 minutes.

5. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Punch down the dough and shape it into a loaf. Place the dough in a greased 8 1/2 - by 4 1/2 -inch loaf pan and bake 35 to 40 minutes, until the bread is golden on top and a toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean. Rotate the pan halfway through baking for even coloring. Cool for 5 minutes.

6. Turn the loaf out onto a rack and cool for 10 minutes. Cut into one-half-inch slices and serve warm.

Each of 16 servings: 111 calories; 3 grams protein; 21 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 16 mg. cholesterol; 158 mg. sodium.


Creamy green chile and chicken stew

Total time: 2 hours, 20 minutes
Servings: 8 to 12

Note: When making this recipe, you can use half of the bean and wine mixture from the broccoli rabe with white beans instead of the cannellini beans in the ingredient list below. To roast the peppers, place them on a stove burner or under the broiler and toast, turning frequently, until the skin is completely charred; place in a bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. When the peppers are cool, peel or brush off the blackened skin and remove the seeds. Do not rinse the peppers because it removes the flavor.

Ingredients

6 slices bacon
2 large yellow onions, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 (12-ounce) bottle light beer or lager
1 quart chicken broth, plus more if desired
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano, crushed
2 teaspoons ground cumin
4 large medium-hot green chiles (such as poblano, about 1 pound), roasted, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
2 cups corn kernels (from about 3 cobs) or cooked and drained white hominy
4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2 -inch pieces
2 bay leaves
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 1 3/4 pounds)
3/4 cup sour cream, divided
Warm corn tortillas

1. Heat a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, turning occasionally, until it's crisp and the fat is rendered, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, crumble and set aside. Add the onions, salt and pepper and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until deep golden brown and caramelized, about 20 minutes. Reserve half of the onions for the whole wheat flatbread recipe, or for another use.

2. Add the beer to the remaining onions, stir to scrape up any browned bits and continue to cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are moist and the beer is somewhat reduced, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chicken broth, lime juice, oregano, cumin, chiles, beans, salt and pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Puree the stew until smooth, using a blender (in batches) or in the pot with an immersion blender.

3. Add the corn, carrots, bay leaves and crumbled bacon to the stew and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside until it's cool enough to handle. (Meanwhile, leave the pot on the stove and allow the contents to simmer gently.) Shred the chicken, then return it to the pot.

4. Stir in one-fourth cup of the sour cream. Thin, if desired, with additional broth, season to taste and gently simmer for 10 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and discard the bay leaves. You should have about 12 cups of stew. Ladle the stew into bowls, garnish with dollops of sour cream, if you like, and serve with tortillas on the side.

Each of 12 servings: 255 calories; 18 grams protein; 17 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 13 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 55 mg. cholesterol; 309 mg. sodium.


Mango fool shrimp bisque


Active Work Time: 30 minutes
Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

1/2 cup olive oil
2 large carrots, chopped
1 onion, chopped
4 stalks celery, chopped
2 red bell peppers, chopped
1 tsp. minced fresh oregano
1 Tbsp. minced fresh thyme
1 tsp. minced fresh basil
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsps. chopped parsley
1 cup white wine
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
Dash cayenne pepper
1 tsp. black pepper
8 cups water
2 Tbsps. butter
3 Tbsps. flour
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined, finely chopped
1 cup whipping cream
1 tsp. hot pepper sauce

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook the carrots, onion, celery, bell peppers, oregano, thyme, basil, bay leaves and parsley until softened, 15 minutes.

2. Add the wine and reduce by half, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cayenne and black pepper. Add the water. Simmer until the vegetables are very tender, 45 minutes. Puree the soup in batches and return to the saucepan.

3. Blend the butter and flour together with your fingertips. Whisk the mixture into the pureed soup and bring to a boil. Add the shrimp, cream and hot pepper sauce and bring to a simmer. Cook 1 to 2 minutes more.